Views: 0 Author: aumabio Publish Time: 2024-10-21 Origin: aumabio and internet
In the world of gardening, propagation through cuttings is an economical and efficient method for multiplying plants. Recently, I had the opportunity to receive two fig tree cuttings from a colleague, and I decided to try propagating them myself. Despite not having rooting powder or growth hormones, I researched YouTube and various platforms to find an improved method, which ultimately led to the successful rooting of the cuttings.
My Propagation Steps:
Pre-treat the Cuttings: Begin by soaking the fig tree cuttings, which have at least two bud points, in water for about 15 minutes to half an hour to allow the cuttings to fully absorb water.
Trim the Cut: Make a new slanted cut at the end of the cutting to increase the surface area, which aids in nutrient absorption and rooting. Ensure that the cut is at the end, with the bud points facing upwards.
Prepare the Rooting Point: Gently scrape away the bark near the soil level to expose the green layer, which will serve as the new rooting point.
Set Up the Propagation Environment: Use a transparent cup for easy observation. Place a 1.7-inch opening clip cup and a 3-inch planting sponge cup inside. Insert the cutting into the clip cup and add a small amount of water, keeping it slightly moist but not overly wet to prevent mold.
Create a Greenhouse Effect: Wrap the entire cup with a transparent bag and secure it with a rubber band to simulate a mini-greenhouse. Place the cup in a shady area and wait patiently for the cutting to root.
Notes:
Humidity Control: The soil should not be too wet; the key is to use a bit of moisture and temperature to encourage rooting. If mildew appears, don't worry too much; it can be dealt with after transplanting when the cutting has grown.
Transplanting Timing: When the cutting has developed larger leaves and roots, it's time to transplant it into a larger pot. Remember to let the plant acclimate in a shaded outdoor area for a few days before gradually moving it to a place with dappled light, and finally, to a spot with direct sunlight.
Seasonal Adjustments: I used this method in winter, and even in temperatures as low as minus ten degrees Celsius, the seedlings survived. If propagating in summer, as long as the temperature is stable around 25 degrees Celsius, you can proceed directly outdoors.
By following this method, I not only saved on the cost of buying rooting powder and growth hormones but also enjoyed the pleasure of gardening. I hope these tips can help others who share a passion for gardening.
A: The best time for propagating fig trees is during the spring and early summer when the plant's growth is most active, which is conducive to successful rooting. However, with proper care, propagation can be attempted in other seasons as well.
A: You'll need healthy fig tree cuttings with at least two nodes, a clean transparent cup for monitoring root development, a 1.7-inch opening clip cup, a 3-inch planting sponge cup to hold the cutting, a rubber band to secure a plastic bag, and a transparent bag to create a mini-greenhouse effect.
A: A slanted cut increases the surface area of the cutting, which can improve the absorption of water and nutrients, thus enhancing the chances of successful rooting.
A: If mold appears, it's usually not a significant issue if it's minor. You can ignore it for the time being and address it during the transplanting process by removing the affected areas. If mold is extensive, you may need to start with new cuttings or use a fungicide to treat the area.
A: After the cuttings have rooted, transplant the seedlings carefully to avoid damaging the new roots. Start by placing them in a small pot and let them acclimate to the new environment. Gradually introduce them to more sunlight, moving from a shaded area to a spot with indirect light before placing them in a location with direct sunlight.